Area Description

Cabezon Country is located approximately 20 miles west of the town of San Ysidro. The focal point of the area is Cabezon Peak, the dramatic volcanic formation that is one of the most well known landmarks in northwest New Mexico. Cabezon Peak, elevation 7,785 feet, is part of the Mount Taylor volcanic field and is the largest of several volcanic necks, including Cerro Cuate, rising from the Rio Puerco Valley. Dramatic basaltic cliffs on Cabezon provide a close view of the internal plumbing of an ancient volcano.

To the north of Cabaezon Peak and Cerro Cuate are the dramatic cliffs and sandstone canyons of Mesa San Luis. Empedrado encompasses lava-capped mesa tops and the major drainages of Arroyo Chico and Torreon Wash. Mesa Crotalo is found at the western edge of Cabezon Country. This area is characterized by open grasslands separated by a series of sandstone mesas, each with its own set of unusual shapes, hoodoos, and geologic oddities. The most dramatic of these mesas is aptly named Battleship.

To the south, the land rises sharply to Mesa Chivato with cool pine forests and elevations over 8,000 feet. Mesa Chivato is composed of basaltic lava flows that erupted from Mount Taylor 3.3 to 1.5 million years ago. These flows cap colorful Cretaceous shoreline and marine rock layers that are well exposed where the lava cap ends and the elevation drops quickly to the Arroyo Chico to the north.

The Rio Puerco flows through Cabezon Country, passing close by Cerro Cuate before making a dramatic bend to the south. Three of this region's major drainages, La Cañada Santiago, La Cañada de la Leña, and Arroyo Chico, all join the Rio Puerco as it winds through the Cerro Cuate unit. Sections of Arroyo Chico are a perennial stream and support riparian habitat.

Separated from the rest of the complex to the east, just a few miles southwest of San Ysidro, is the Ojito unit. Dramatic landforms and rock structures, multi-colored badlands, classic box canyons, and diverse flora and fauna characterize this area. This unit is part of the Tierra Amarilla Anticline and represents a textbook example of a breached plunging anticline. There are also paleontological sites, including one of the largest dinosaur skeletons ever discovered, a Seismasaurus. Elevations range from 5,650 to 6,261 feet.

Ecological Values

Open grasslands, juniper dotted grasslands, pinyon-juniper woodlands, old growth ponderosa pine, and riparian habitats are all represented in Cabezon Country. The Rio Puerco region is a vital biotic link between the Colorado Plateau and the Southern Rockies, providing habitat and dispersal corridors for far ranging species such as the mountain lion. The wildlands complex surrounding Cabezon Peak is particularly important in this respect because it connects the Mt. Taylor-Mesa Chivato region to the Nacimiento and Jemez Mountains. The Rio Puerco, which traverses the area, is also a major tributary of the Rio Grande, joining it just north of the Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge. As such, it is a key riparian corridor in an otherwise arid landscape.

The Rio Puerco basin is home to approximately 282 species of vertebrate animals including nearly 200 species of birds, 38 species of amphibians and reptiles, 1 species of fish, and 66 species of mammals. Bird species are particularly diverse in the basin and include great blue heron, white faced ibis, canvasback, common merganser, rough legged hawk, red tail hawk, ferruginous hawk, sharp-shinned hawk, osprey, golden eagle, American coot, barn owl, great horned owl, and kestrel, whip-poor-will, white-throated swift, western kingbird, bushtit, warbling vireo, western meadowlark, purple finch, swifts, swallows, prairie falcon, Merriam's turkey, gray-headed junco, Stellar's jay, and pinyon jay. The unique landmarks of Cerro Parido and Boca del Oso are considered particularly important golden eagle nesting sites. The San Luis Mesa is also important raptor nesting habitat.

Large elk herds graze in the forests of Mesa Chivato and winter in the valleys of the Cabezon Country. Also present in here are black bear, mountain lion, bobcat, gray fox, mule deer, pronghorn, Gunnison's prairie dog, badger, porcupine, and a variety of reptiles, including collared lizards. Because of the presence of prairie dogs, the area is also potential habitat for the endangered black-footed ferret. Three special-status plant species, Knight's milkvetch, Wright's pincushion cactus and grama grass cactus, can be found in the area.

Scenic and Recreational Qualities

The outstanding scenic feature of the Cabezon Country is Cabezon Peak itself. It is the subject of countless photographs and paintings, attesting to the area's beauty and wild character. In addition to Cabezon Peak, the area's scenery includes other impressive volcanic plugs such as Cerro Cuate, Cerro Chafo, Cerro de Santa Clara, and Cerro Parido. Colorful sandstone cliffs and unique hoodoos give Mesa Crotalo, Empedrado, La Leña and San Luis aesthetic appeal. The Boca del Oso (Bears Mouth) is a distinctive rocky feature jutting out from the edge of the Mesa Chivato.

Hiking opportunities are excellent in Cabezon Country. Cabezon Peak has a primitive trail that allows hikers to climb to the top and enjoy spectacular views of the entire Rio Puerco Valley. The Continental Divide Trail also weaves its way through several units in the complex. Although other areas have no established trails, the open terrain provides ample opportunities for cross-country exploration and primitive recreation. The backside of the cliffs of the San Luis Mesa feature a maze of canyons that invite exploration and provide outstanding opportunities to experience the quiet and solitude of wilderness. Bird watching here is also excellent due to the raptor-nesting habitat on the cliffs. Recreational activities in the area also include horseback riding, hunting, backpacking, rock climbing, and geological and archaeological sightseeing.

Special Management Areas

Six Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs) are designated by BLM in Cabezon Country: Cabezon, La Leña, Empedrado, Ignacio Chavez, Chamisa, and Ojito. Four Areas of Critical Environmental Concern (ACECs) are are also found in the complex: Cabezon Peak, San Luis Raptor, Ignacio Chavez, and Ojito. BLM has called Ignacio Chavez "one of the most diverse and productive wildlife habitats in northwestern New Mexico." The cliffs of the San Luis Raptor ACEC are protected for raptor nesting sites including golden eagles, prairie falcons, and red-tailed hawks. Ojito ACEC was designated to protect the area's outstanding paleontological, cultural, and scenic values, and to protect wildlife and rare plant habitat.

Cultural Values

Cabezon Country contains a number of cultural sites, both historic and pre-historic. According to Navajo legend, Cabezon Peak is the head of a large giant that was slain by the Twin War Gods. Prehistoric cultural resources include numerous Paleo-Indian, Archaic, Navajo, and Pueblo sites. A Chacoan shrine rests atop Cabezon Peak and petroglyphs exist on canyon walls, particularly in the Chamisa / Banco Breaks unit. The high elevation of Mesa Chivato and its steep drop to the Rio Puerco Valley make it unlikely that early humans lived here, but they hunted and gathered here. A prehistoric Pueblo ceramic/lithic scatter and a historic Navajo hogan have been surveyed in this area. Other resources of interest include the Navajo site of Big Bead Mesa, a National Historic Landmark. Over 90 sites and features, dating from about AD 1745 to 1812, are located on the mesa, including an impressive 12-foot high defensive masonry wall. In addition, the Ojito unit contains prehistoric kivas and a pueblo of 30 or more rooms. This area is also home to current sacred and religious sites of the Zia, Jemez, and Santa Ana Pueblos.

In Spanish, El Cabezon, means "the big head." Cerro Cuate is named for the Spanish word "cuate", which means "twins," referring to the pair of rugged peaks that grace the top of this volcanic plug. Spanish cultural sites are also found adjacent to inventory units in the complex. These sites include the historic town of Cabezon with a century-old church that is still in use today. There are also numerous remnants of abandoned homesteads along the banks of the Rio Puerco.

Access Information

To access Cabezon County, take Hwy 279 off of Hwy 550 between Cuba and San Ysidro. Head past the small settlement of San Luis and continue straight on to a maintained dirt road where the pavement curves north. About 3 miles past the second power-line you pass under is the junction of two maintained roads. From this junction, you have endless opportunities to explore. Go south about 3 miles to get to the trailhead for Cabezon Peak. Continue west around Cerro Cuate to get to Hunters Camp and up on to Mesa Chivato.

The USGS 7.5 minute maps that cover this complex are San Luis, Arroyo Empedrado, Canada Calladita, Mesita del Gavilan, Mesa Cortada, Cerro Parido, Guadalupe, Cabezon Peak, Ojito Spring, San Ysidro, Sky Village NE, Sky Village NW, Cerro Tinaja, Laguna Seca, El Dado Mesa, Cerro Alesna, Cerro Pelon, and Laguna Canoneros.